Category Archives: DIY Decor and Gifts

Painted Wood Signs

1 Reply

How to paint lettering on a wood sign (and have crisp lines!)

What you’ll need:
– Vinyl cutter: I have a Silhouette Cameo – Cricuts are great too!
– Stencil Vinyl: Oracal 631 from Amazon
– Transfer Paper: JH Best Crafts from Amazon
– Plywood: Sande plywood from Home Depot works well
– Wood Stain: We use MinWax Weathered Gray and Verathane Dark Walnut
– Sand Paper: We use 120 grit and then 220 grit
– Mod Podge
– Acrylic Paint: Any white outdoor acrylic will work well
– Paint brushes for stain and small brushes/foam brushes for stenciling – Polyurethane: Optional for sealing boards

If you’ve made it to this page, you are at least a little interested in the prospect of making your own wood signs. I don’t blame you – it’s a blast! I’ve used my vinyl cutter for so many projects – stencils, stickers, iron-on designs, cardstock – my favorite crafting purchase yet!

First things first – decide how large you want your sign to be. We typically buy 4′ x 8′ pieces of plywood and have them cut down at Home Depot, but a smaller piece will work for just a few signs. After cutting the wood, sand it with 120 grit sandpaper to smooth out any rough edges and to even out any imperfections in the top of the board, finishing with 220 grit.

Once your board is cut and sanded, you are ready to stain! One coat provides full coverage on the plywood since the color is fairly light and uniform. We applied two coats of the stain shown above to get a darker color, but I think next time we will use the Premium Varathane and see if one coat does the trick. We recommend staining the back first, waiting a couple hours (follow directions on your stain can), and then staining the front and sides so that any drips or touch ups are on the back. When staining the back, be careful around the edges to minimize the amount of stain that seeps under the board onto the front. When you are wiping off the excess, run your rag under the board as well so that any stain that does seep under doesn’t pool. Once your boards are stained, make sure you leave enough time for them to dry completely before stenciling – we wait overnight which is probably aggressive, but better safe than sorry!

In the meantime, get familiar with the design software on your Silhouette Cameo or Cricut. I watched a ton of You Tube videos to get tips and tricks for the Silhouette Cameo. Here are some big ones:
– Tip #1: When using script fonts, it’s helpful to weld the letters together before printing, shown in the image below on the left – it makes it easier to weed the lettering out of the stencil in one piece.
– Tip #2: Make sure to leave enough blank space around the edge of your design page so that your vinyl doesn’t slip during your cut.
– Tip #3: In the Design tab, you can select whether or not you are using a cutting mat, shown in the image on the right. I typically send my vinyl through without a cutting mat because I’ve found that it’s easier to keep the vinyl straight in the machine, but test it out to see what works best for you.

Once your design is welded and ready to go, select ‘Print’ in the right-hand corner of the image below on the left. On the print page, make sure that the type of vinyl you are using is selected (stencil vinyl typically has a matte finish). The default speed and force that populates will typically do the trick, but I always load vinyl into the machine to test my blade before printing an entire design. The test button will create a small triangle in the left-hand corner of your vinyl, and you can use this to double check that the blade is cutting through the vinyl but not the backing (seriously, I do this before EVERY print job). After your test, make sure your vinyl is loaded back into the machine, and send to print!

While your stencil is printing, it may be hard to tell whether it’s actually cutting your vinyl – be patient! When your print job is complete, unload the vinyl and cut out your stencil, leaving some room around the lettering. Then, weed out the letters in your printed design. Make sure that any standalone pieces (such as the centers of ‘a’s and ‘e’s) do not lift up with the vinyl.

Once you’ve weeded all of your lettering, apply transfer tape to your entire design (try to cover in one piece if possible) and press down firmly to push out any bubbles. At this point, I always lay out my design on the wood and mark where I’ll position it so that it’s centered. It can be difficult to peel up and re-position your vinyl once you place it down, so it’s worth the extra checks and measurements. 🙂

Carefully peel off the backing off of your vinyl, making sure those standalone pieces stay stuck to your transfer paper, and place the vinyl design on your wood board. Use your scraper or any straight edge to make sure that there are no bubbles in your vinyl and that the entire design adheres fully to the board.

Once your design is placed, peel up the transfer tape to unveil the stencil! Tip: If your vinyl starts to come up with the transfer tape, lay the transfer tape back down and firmly press on the design so that it adheres to the board. When you’ve removed your transfer tape, double-check that all edges are stuck and that there are no bubbles (this is the key to crisp lines!). I line the edge of my vinyl stencil with painter’s tape for an extra buffer to keep paint from venturing outside the stencil lines.

Using a foam brush or a paint brush, apply a thin layer of Mod Podge onto your design, making sure that it’s applied within all of the crevices. This step can be optional, but it creates another barrier to keep paint from seeping under your stencil. You will be able to tell when the Mod Podge is dry because it will turn clear.

Finally, time to paint! I used a small stencil paintbrush for this tutorial, but a foam brush works as well. When painting your signs, make sure that your coats are VERY thin – it should look like you’ve barely painted after your first coat (shown on the left). Thin paint coats will protect against 1) paint pooling and seeping under the vinyl and 2) paint sticking to your vinyl and peeling up when you remove your stencil. These are lessons learned from LOTS of trial and error – you’re welcome! I wait about 20 minutes between paint coats and typically apply three coats (shown below on the right). Honestly, I think that two would probably do the trick and one would create a more rustic/worn look.

After your third coat, wait 30 minutes before peeling off your stencil. You guys – this is my favorite part! Carefully and slowly peel up your stencil to uncover your crisp paint lines and beautiful lettering! I find that following the direction of the lettering when peeling up the vinyl helps to create clean lines, shown below on the left. It can also help to cut off chunks of the vinyl as you peel so that it doesn’t get unwieldy. For standalone pieces, such as the loop in the ‘g’ below, use a stencil weeding tool or a pin to pick up the edge without chipping your paint.

If you will be using your signs for home decor or if they will be outside, we recommend finishing them with a couple coats or polyurethane, or a polyurethane spray, to protect both the lettering and the stain.

Tip: If you are looking to use a mirror or acrylic as your sign material, simply follow the steps above to create and print your design and weed out the vinyl around the design versus the lettering itself. This creates a sticker, as shown below. Use transfer tape to give structure to your sticker, peel off the backing, and place on your mirror or piece of clear acrylic for a pretty sign without the paint!

Customize Your Cards!

Leave a reply

IMG_0046

How to make your own customized cards:

What you will need: Blank cards and envelopes, scrapbook paper, glue stick, rubber stamps (with various messages), ink pads, rotary cutter (or scissors), cutting mat, ruler

If you’re like me, picking out a card is a process. A long, long, process. I scan through every option, hoping to find the perfect card with the perfect message inside. Then, after spending five times longer than intended in this abyss of an aisle, I inevitably end up spending what would almost qualify as a gift in and of itself on a piece of folded paper with a few rhinestones. Don’t get me wrong, I am still a sucker for the occasional witty card that seems to read my mind, but as I prepare for the student life (and unemployment), I figured it was time to find an alternative for the other 99% of card-worthy events.

My solution? Card making! Surprising, I know. I already had a booklet of patterned paper left over from a scrapbook project, so I bought a few rubber stamps and a package of 10 blank cards from Michael’s… for much less than one store-bought card… and got to work! I had a blast picking out stamps and creating simple cards with a homemade touch. If you can’t find the perfect stamp, simply write your message with a nice paint pen to get the same printed look (see my Mother’s Day card at the end of this post)!

IMG_0005

I first stamped my message on a piece of plain, light colored scrapbook paper (so I could see it clearly) and cut it out with a fun pair of craft scissors. I then created a border with a piece of colorful patterned paper, mounted that onto another piece of cardstock to add contrast, and glued this to my card, creating a clean pattern. Leave your card as is for a simple, elegant look or add ribbons and embellishments to jazz it up for any occasion!

   IMG_0008 IMG_0009

To add a bit of decoration to the inside panel, I created borders using leftover paper from the front of the card, leaving plenty of room for a note. If you aren’t much of a writer, you can take up more room by adding a message with a stamp 😉 The whole process took a lot less time than a typical trip to the card store, and I enjoyed designing my own cards for various occasions.

 IMG_0010 IMG_0013

I do have one disclaimer – if you plan on only making one card, you are probably better off heading to the card store. There is a small initial investment to get the materials you need, but once you have them you are set for cards galore! The scrapbook aisle of any craft store is your oyster – get creative and have fun! Your friends and family will appreciate the original creation, and your wallet will appreciate the savings. Happy crafting!

IMG_0213

Painted Clay Ornaments

Leave a reply

IMG_9475

How to make and paint clay ornaments:

What you will need: Oven-bake clay (Sculpey), corn starch, wet-dry sand paper, wax paper, cookie cutters and stamps (for decor),  acrylic paint and gloss, paint brushes and sponges

When I originally decided to make ornaments, I thought about painting pre-made pieces, but that seemed far too structured. Instead, I researched different types of clay to figure out how to make them on my own! For the ornaments used in this post, I used Sculpey oven-bake clay, but there are great air dry options as well. I was drawn to the Sculpey clay because it stays malleable until you bake it, so there is no risk of drying out your clay while you work! I have a feeling that I will be using this clay for many crafts to come, so stay tuned!

IMG_9430

Before starting this project, I lined a cookie sheet with wax paper, and added cornstarch to keep the clay from sticking to the wax and the stamps used. I used my hands to flatten the clay since it is easy to work with, but for my next batch I bought a fondant frosting roller to make the thickness (about 1/8 inch) more uniform. Once the clay was prepped, I cut out my desired ornament shape with a cookie cutter.

IMG_9432

I then used stamps to emboss my design into the clay. You can use doilies and other objects to create cool designs and textures as well! I then created a hole in the top for ribbon with the sharp tip of one of my clay tools. Make sure that you don’t make the hole too close to the edge!

IMG_9435   IMG_9436

I baked the ornaments according to the directions on the box, which for Sculpey clay is 225 degrees for 15 minutes per 1/4 inch of thickness. I kept them in the oven for close to 15 minutes, though, even though the ornaments were thinner. Just make sure to keep an eye on them, as the clay can brown if left in the oven for too long.

IMG_9441

Once the ornaments were baked, I let them cool completely before using my wet-dry sandpaper to even the surface. I started with 400 grit sandpaper, but I would recommend starting with an even lower grit (more grainy) to really smooth the surface of your ornament. I just bought 320 grit paper to use on my next batch and plan to work up to 1000 grit for extra shine.

IMG_9443

Once sanded, my ornament was ready for painting! On the Christmas tree ornament, I applied a thick layer of paint in the crevices of the letters, and then wiped the rest with a damp paper towel to create a stained look.

IMG_9445 IMG_9446

Note that if you want to remove the paint completely, you can use alcohol to do so. After this layer had dried, I added another thin coat of paint to the ornament and used a painting sponge to create texture and remove brush strokes.IMG_9452 - Version 2

For the snowflake ornament, I applied thick silver acrylic paint to the entire ornament and let it dry. Next, I used a thin paintbrush to apply the white paint in the crevices of the stamped numbers. After this dried, I applied a second coat of silver paint to the entire ornament with a painting sponge, leaving the crevices white and the remainder of the ornament silver.

IMG_9451 IMG_9453

Sculpey comes in several colors, so if you have small detail that you would rather not paint, you can always buy the color you desire. Or, you can sand and buff the ornaments to a high shine and leave them as it! I let this paint sit for a little over 24 hours, and then applied an acrylic glaze to strengthen the surface and add additional gloss.

IMG_9455   IMG_9457

IMG_9460

You can also mix a little paint with the gloss to add color and gloss in just one step – so many options! Regardless of which method you use, let the ornaments dry overnight and tie on your ribbon for the perfect gift, or hang them front and center on your own tree!

Mason Jar Treats

Leave a reply

How to make mason jar treats:

What you will need: mason jars (wide-mouth pint size), saucepan, tongs, cake mix, decorations of your choice

I was first introduced to the idea of making cakes in mason jars when my friend was sending care packages to her husband overseas. I thought they were such a cute idea, and if done correctly, cake baked in mason jars can last for weeks!

To start, I thoroughly cleaned the mason jars and lids with hot water and a lot of soap  and set them aside to dry. I used wide-mouth mason jars to make it easier to get the cake out, but you can also use regular jars if you plan to eat the cake right out of the jar.

IMG_8618   IMG_8619

While the jars were drying, I took out my recipe, preheated the oven, and prepared the cake! I baked a carrot cake for these jars, but any homemade or boxed cake or bread recipe should work. Once the cake batter was ready and the jars were completely dry, I sprayed the inside of each jar with PAM so that the cake wouldn’t stick to the walls, and dispersed the batter evenly across 8 jars. I filled each one about half full, but my cakes only filled about 3/4 of the jar when baked so feel free to add more batter if you have it!

IMG_8620 IMG_8624

I set my timer for 25 minutes, less than the time recommended in the recipe, so that I could check on the cakes to see how they were progressing. While the cakes were baking, I started to boil water in a saucepan on the stove. Once the water was boiling, I placed all of the inner discs of the lids into the water to sterilize them and to soften the wax sealant. I made sure the button on top of the discs was popped out before sterilizing them, as these pop in as the jars seal.

IMG_8625

I continued to check on the cakes using toothpicks, and took them out of the oven when the toothpicks came out clean. Using tongs, I took a disc out of the saucepan, dried each side on a towel, and placed it on a mason jar, carefully screwing the lid on top using two oven mitts (the jar and lid will be hot!). I repeated this with each mason jar, and waited for them to seal. One by one, as the jars cooled, the tops of the jars popped in, sealing the cakes. Be patient – it takes about 15 to 20 minutes for the jars to cool enough to seal.IMG_8628Once the cakes had sealed and were fully cooled, I decorated them! I wrapped bubble wrap around each jar and sent them to my boyfriend and his brother for their birthday. It was a great way to give them homemade treats from 3,000 miles away, and their friends even helped out and had cream cheese frosting ingredients ready in the fridge! Success!

Painted Tins

Leave a reply

How to paint and decorate tins:

What you will need: plain tins, acrylic paint, paint brushes, paint sponges, acrylic sealer (optional)

When I decided to make toffee for friends and family last Christmas, I couldn’t find any Christmas tins that I liked, so I decided to paint my own! The woman helping me at the Container Store gave me a sideways glance as I passed up the entire wall of Christmas tins for plain ones, but I was already on a mission. Tins can be re-used for so many things, so why not add a personal touch? Before I started, I washed all of the tins with soap and water to remove any dust and to allow the paint to adhere better to the metal.

IMG_6498

Once the tins were dry, I got to work! I painted only the top of the tins so that the paint was not close to the toffee and so that it wouldn’t chip when the lid was taken on and off. To start, I painted a thick layer of red paint with a paint brush. After letting the paint dry, I painted another layer for a more opaque finish, and then I used a craft sponge across the fresh layer of paint to give it texture.

IMG_6500

Before adding the design, I let the paint set for a couple of hours (overnight works too!) so that the red paint did not blend with the white snowflake. I used two coats of white paint to make the snowflake pop, and left the tins to dry for a couple of days before using them.

IMG_6570

You can also spray an acrylic sealer to help set the paint and avoid scratches in the paint. Line your tins with parchment paper, add your favorite Christmas cookies (or salted almond toffee!), and get ready to spread Christmas cheer!

IMG_6577